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Jun 01, 2023

Fortune India: Business News, Strategy, Finance and Corporate Insight

INHABITING THREE FLOORS of a white, 100-year-old neo-colonial landmark building

INHABITING THREE FLOORS of a white, 100-year-old neo-colonial landmark building in Fort, not far from the iconic Gateway of India, designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee's newest address in Mumbai is a gasp-inducing, opulent, sensorially decadent experience that needs to be lived to be believed. It is a treasure trove of antiquities — giant Canton vases, carpets, Tanjore art, Mughal miniatures, Nathdwara-style pichwais, and modern Persian quajar-style paintings, among others. His occasionwear and bridalwear occupies the first floor, with his signature red lehengas and saris, white, and black lehengas made of khadi. Menswear, womenswear ready-to-wear and accessories dominate the second floor, while an entire first floor is dedicated to jewellery — the heavy polki diamond sets (₹50 lakh) from his Heritiage line made in Rajasthan and assembled at his ateliers in Kolkata, his Fine Jewellery (with emerald and diamond necklaces priced at around ₹3 crore) and High Jewellery contemporary line — including the Bengal Byzantine Broadway Collection, and some exquisite pieces for men — like ornate sirpechs..

After the Dior and Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre events in Mumbai, is it the beginning of the West's interest in India?

One hundred per cent. Earlier, India was a country that just produced for the world. Today India is also becoming the largest consumer market, so it's both the front-end and the back-end. The West has to understand that the Indian customer has a tremendous sense of self, and they cannot be here with inequitable partnerships. It is one of the reasons why international brands are keen to invest in business relationships with India in a much better way than anywhere else in the world. India will change the game for luxury. Where else will you get a billion people who are of a young age, and will be the future luxury buyers of brands in the country?

About this space, and its museum-like atmosphere, why is nostalgia so important?

Nostalgia is not a celebration of the past, it's bringing virtues that are important from the past into the present. Sustainability of culture is all about knowing what to throw, and what to keep. I have modern music, as well as old music.

The world can't move ahead without acknowledging the past. If you were to only celebrate nostalgia in the clothing industry, your clothing would turn into costumes. I like the proximity of the old and the new, because to me great design comes from a genesis of the old and the new, and the knowledge of what of the old you need to respect and what of the new you need to create or accept.

Was the idea of having a store within a living breathing museum was to help one interact with and surround oneself with objects?

In a zeal to modernise the country, we leave behind a lot of things that we might not find back again, and I wanted to create this store for the younger generation, to inspire them to think, that India had a beautiful past and it becomes our responsibility to protect it and take that forward. Younger children exposed to heritage, have a more rounded ability of looking at their country. When I build a store like this, I don't expect people to only come and shop here, but also come and experience it.

How do you see modern jewellery?

The way Indians consume jewellery today is completely different. Earlier, Indians would consume jewellery to hoard money and for savings. The younger generation doesn't want to buy expensive jewellery they can only wear once or twice, but things they can use repeatedly.

Your definition of a modern heirloom?

A modern heirloom is a beautifully made piece which is made with authentic craft. It's something that is not so precious that you can't wear it. It's a combination of rarity of product, not rarity of usage.

What has changed since you joined hands with the Aditya Birla Group?

It's business as usual. Right now we have two investors — me and Birla together, so it makes me feel protected. Nothing else has changed. The only thing that has changed is that we have a great HR policy with the Birlas; they will be able to look after my people better, as I have created a beautiful safety net for all my employees.

What is your life lesson for youngsters?

Have the audacity to dream, and dream big, because only when you dream big will you get somewhere. Secondly, be patient while you are growing the dream, because if you are consistent about your messaging and believe in what you do, it will be a matter of time until the world believes in you.

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